The Journey Behind My SPF Cream

Over the years, there has been one product that I have received more requests for than anything else. Unfortunately, I was unable to help these customers and have briefly explained the reasons why. However, I am very excited to say that I have now overcome these obstacles and am in a position to provide you with my new Protect & Hydrate SPF30 Face Cream. Below, I have outlined why creating a sunscreen has been such a challenge and why it has taken so long to develop.

Why Sunscreen is Essential

There is no doubt that prolonged sun exposure leads to premature ageing of the skin and can cause some skin cancers. Reducing exposure to the sun not only provides protection against ageing skin but also reduces the risk of developing certain types of skin cancer over a lifetime.

Challenges in Developing Sunscreens

The development of sunscreens is not as simple as creating other basic skincare products. There are additional costs involved during development, efficacy and stability testing, extra time needed for development and testing, multi-country compliance requirements (if intending to sell overseas), and aesthetic and stability standards that must be met.

Navigating Regulatory Challenges

Sunscreen products are regulated differently in various countries, and their labelling and registration requirements also differ. Some countries categorise sunscreens as cosmetics, while others classify them as drugs. Additionally, some UV filters are permitted in certain countries but not in others.

Time Required for Formulation

The next challenge was getting the right skin feel from the allowed and desired ingredients, which can be tricky when working with UV filters. Some can feel chalky, while others may leave the product feeling too greasy. Extra time was required in the formulation stage to achieve the texture I desired. Before the product can be marketed, its SPF level and shelf life need to be established. This process involves at least six months of accelerated stability testing on the finished product in its final packaging.

Cost Considerations for SPF Products

Developing a formula with SPF costs significantly more than other skincare products. However, this is only the beginning compared to the costs of SPF testing. Moreover, there are costs associated with preservative efficacy testing, stability testing, and regulatory expenses linked to listing or registering the product. All these added significantly to the up-front costs, especially when the timeline from concept to manufacturing and marketing realistically spans around 12 months. For a small business like Oleo, this was naturally a big consideration.

Ensuring Product Stability

Formulating a stable sunscreen with an SPF that feels pleasant to use is a challenge. The higher the SPF, the more UV filters are required. The more UV filters used, the less room there is in the formula for aesthetically pleasing ingredients, and even less space for stability-enhancing factors. Good stability is essential, as the cream needs to have a shelf life of at least 12 months (or more if kept under ideal conditions).

As you can see, getting my product to look, feel, and smell the way I wanted was not without its challenges. The process was made even harder because I did not want to use certain types of UV filters, and I wanted it to be vegan to align with the rest of the Oleo vegan skincare range.

With a huge sigh of relief, I can now say that I have created an SPF30 face cream that I am very happy with—and I hope you will be too.

Shop the Protect & Hydrate SPF30 Face Cream