Understanding Humectants, Emollients and Occlusive Ingredients

When it comes to skincare, hydration is key to maintaining healthy and glowing skin. There are three main types of hydrators that are commonly used in skincare products: humectants, occlusives, and emollients.

You need a combination of these three types of moisturisers to help with repairing and strengthening the skin barrier, increasing water content in the skin, reducing water loss, and restoring the lipid barrier. However, each type plays a unique role in keeping the skin moisturised and nourished.

The role of the stratum corneum

The stratum corneum (the outermost layer of the skin, made up of dead cells) protects the skin against external aggressors (UV radiation, pathogens, etc.) and reduces the evaporation of water from inside the body into the environment, thereby preventing a rapid loss of moisture.

However, the stratum corneum is not able to fully prevent water evaporation. This is what leads to natural and constant Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL).

How does TEWL (transepidermal water loss) work?

When TEWL is under control, the stratum corneum holds back the right amount of water, allowing the skin to perform its protective (barrier) function at its best.

However, when TEWL is too high – as is the case with dry skin, for example – it’s because the stratum corneum has been affected in some way, resulting in excessive loss of water through evaporation. This affects the barrier capabilities of the skin, leading to other problems, such as sensitivity, itching, redness and irritation.

Humectants: drawing moisture into the skin

Humectants are ingredients that attract water molecules from the environment and draw them into the skin. They draw water from the dermis (deeper layer of the skin) up to the epidermis (top layer of skin) where dehydration happens. Once the water has been attracted, humectants help to bind and retain this moisture within the epidermis, preventing and slowing water loss from the skin that leads to dehydration and impaired skin barrier function.

Common humectants include hyaluronic acid, glycerin, aloe vera, and hydroxy acids. These ingredients help to hydrate the skin by increasing its water content, making it look plump and healthy. This increase in water content helps to decrease the appearance of fine lines and improve skin barrier function. Humectants should be paired up with either emollients or occlusives to help them carry out their role.

Oleo Bodycare's super-hydrating Resilience Facial Moisturiser contains a generous quantity of hyaluronic acid. It is the body’s own hydrating molecule, capable of absorbing up to 1,000 times its own weight in water. Consequently, it plumps up the skin and gives it volume. Its hydrating properties result in increased skin smoothness, softening, and decreased appearance of wrinkles. Ageing can result in the loss of hyaluronic acid, which in turn results in skin that has less volume and the formation of wrinkles.

Emollients: smoothing and softening the skin

Emollients are ingredients that help to soften and smooth the skin by filling in the gaps between skin cells, as well as replacing lipids, helping to create a barrier to lock in moisture. They stay on the surface of the skin and help to retain humectants.

Common emollients include squalane, jojoba oil, vitamin E, rosehip seed oil, olive oil, calendula, and ceramides.

These ingredients improve the skin's texture and appearance, leaving it feeling soft, nourished, and supple.

Don't we all want skin like this? Well, fortunately for you, the Oleo range contains an abundance of these vegan skincare ingredients.

How Oleo's vegan skincare range can help

Squalane and vitamin E are included in our extremely popular Frankincense Supreme Facial Moisturiser. It provides your complexion with a healthy, nourished glow.

Our best-selling Replenishing Facial Moisturiser is rich in rosehip seed oil. It is high in linoleic and linolenic acids which are responsible for its ability to encourage regeneration and repair of skin tissue. It improves the texture of dry and wrinkled skin.

You will find olive oil, rosehip seed oil, calendula AND vitamin E in our Intensive Dry Skin Balm. This versatile formula can be used anywhere on the body where your skin is crying out for hydrating moisture.

Calendula oil has anti-inflammatory properties which make it calming for irritated skin. Our Soothing Body Lotion contains this moisturising oil which can help to reduce skin redness.

Our completely natural massage balms are bursting with rich olive oil. Apart from being loved by professional therapists and their clients, anyone who could benefit from an ultra-rich moisturiser for their dry skin will find these products ideal and a perfect addition to your vegan skincare regime.

Occlusives: sealing in moisture

Occlusives, within the realm of skincare, are ingredients or products specially designed to establish a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This barrier serves the crucial role of sealing in existing moisture and effectively preventing water loss. Unlike emollients or humectants that add moisture, occlusives focus on preserving and locking in the skin's hydration levels. They prove especially valuable for those dealing with dry or very dry skin, helping maintain essential moisture.

Common occlusive components include shea butter, cocoa butter, and beeswax (or rice bran wax). Certain plant oils with thicker textures, such as coconut, macadamia, argan, and jojoba, are also occlusives. You can often find occlusives featured in skincare products like ointments, balms, and richer creams, designed to provide a robust and lasting protective layer.

For all your vegan skincare needs

• Humectants are essential for attracting and retaining moisture, ensuring optimal hydration in your skincare routine.
• Emollients come into play by enhancing skin texture and adding moisture.
• Occlusives seal in existing moisture while preventing its loss.

A well-rounded approach to skincare often involves incorporating products that combine these three elements — humectants, emollients, and occlusives — to cater to various skin needs and maintain healthy, hydrated skin.

It is reassuring to know that these three components can be found in the facial moisturisers, serums, body lotions, balms and creams in the Oleo range.

Oleo — a one-stop shop for all your vegan skincare (and hair) needs.

Shop Oleo's skincare range